《梅里》—西藏高原嘅單車旅行 - 第一篇起始

「我究竟喺度做緊咩？」旭仔瞓响舖滿雪嘅馬路中心，心入面自言自語。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSQiCJjPtgb
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLbJbs2UKwD
佢架單車—發現號—亦瞓喺佢側邊。雪點一粒粒漂落，打落佢嘅面上。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVMMBOv15qW
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9clShC40zQ
呢度係米拉山，係滇藏線最高嘅一座山，亦係抵達拉薩前要翻過嘅最後一座山。

旭仔頭先已經爬到山口，落山嗰陣，因為路面結冰撻低咗，頭部撞咗落地面，單車壓住佢左腳，痛不欲生。

「你從哪來的？」「你要去哪裡？」呢兩個問題旭仔响路上經常被問起，唔知點解呢個時候突然諗起，不停喺腦入面迴嚮。

「真係好攰。」旭仔心諗：「不如就一直瞓喺度，邊度都唔好去啦。」

雪一直漂落旭仔身上，旭仔開始感覺到體溫流失，昏昏欲睡……

「你真係要去呀？」賢仔表現驚訝噉問：「踩單車上西藏喎！唔係講玩㗎，高原反應真係會死人㗎！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlswGJy96iy
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHTVbOSWHTd
「係囉，旭仔，踩下吐露港咪算囉，唔洗踩上西藏咁癲呀？」阿超附和。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUIoIFMfZ4P
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4aQcRGp3Qx
「喂！你哋唔好剩係打擊佢啦！人哋有夢想去追下咪幾好！」阿強話，然後拍一拍旭仔肩頭：「旭仔，我撐你喎！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJuhPCtXGT6
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4Kb1WiStsb
「旭仔，你係咪受左啲咩打擊呀？有咩唔怕同我哋講喎！」阿超話。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbWTRI2YJte
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9SfM18PT66
「冇，我只係想去睇下梅里雪山，只不過係噉。」旭仔冷淡噉話。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSSYlfzncfE
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡshmYPOvlun
呢個當然係其中一個原因，亦係重要嘅原因，但呢刻旭仔只係唔想畀佢班朋友煩住，佢心入面要煩嘅嘢已經夠多。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNYelKPBICN
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP20cLwEfH6
「梅里雪山之嘛！嗱！」賢仔攞出佢部iPhone，一邊展示佢喺網絡搜尋到梅里雪山嘅相，一邊話：「梅里雪山呀！睇飽佢啦！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6S9ExYDBY1
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYXJCvN8g2X
「唔同㗎，我要親眼睇一次。」旭仔話。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkWF1hjHRWd
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr8mq0W2hRa
「不過旭仔，」阿強話：「你要睇梅里雪山，坐車上去睇都得啦，唔一定要踩單車上去咁危險呀？」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ31iqKBH8nf
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLetwnBTXFM
「一定要踩上去，唯有係噉……」旭仔喃喃自語。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi9NLm1sj56
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwY9IbKfEcs
「唯有係噉？」阿強一肚疑惑噉問。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJotaJwVFVv
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqJosDNwJXL
旭仔冇再回應，阿強只好話：「我哋都係唔好再講呢個話題啦，啲飯凍哂啦，食飯！食飯！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGxI9IjFHJn
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCjxwpXPvxu
阿強先夾起圓桌中央碟上嘅沙拉骨放入口，再扒啖飯，其他人都跟住起筷。四周都係碗筷嘅碰撞聲，同食客夾雜住粗言穢語嘅傾談聲。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWMxC1YPDPf
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrtoJgrOVAs
呢日之後，旭仔將會有一段時間都唔能夠喺香港食大排檔。

「要車嗎？一百塊到古城！要車嗎？一百塊到古城！……」旭仔拖住沉重嘅單車箱喺麗江三義機場走出嚟，就經已見到一班司機大叔响路邊招攬客人。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXsTIVqBL5c
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAZqKb1oNv9
呢個時候已經黃昏，加上啱啱抵埗人生路不熟，而家要將單車組裝起嚟太麻煩，再搵路到古城嘅話唔知要搞到幾點，於是旭仔決定都係花啲錢搭車去古城。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkdIX8iF5eg
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEpHKqoUSWl
「司機大哥！一百塊到古城嗎？我有台單車，能裝放下嗎？」旭仔行到一個大叔面前向佢詢問。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsQxUTWl4dm
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPCRe9vi4hp
「行行行！來來來！」司機大哥幫旭仔將單車放入貨Van嘅車尾箱，跟住叫旭仔上車，自己再走到司機位開車。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6npfkRKSah
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZVCkTo2O8d
「小伙子！從哪來的？第一次來麗江嗎？」開車之後，司機大哥就不斷撩旭仔傾計。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhdNNBN5OvL
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡawLxzgdbBR
由於最近港中關係緊張，旭仔唔想因為自己香港人嘅身份惹嚟麻煩，就話：「從深圳來的，第一次來麗江。」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXCbdTa0E6x
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxp546e26nN
「深圳喔！你帶自行車，是要去拉薩嗎？」司機問。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMg1KpkwZdN
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8tg1jKAjXb
「對。」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ35ujhCJt8L
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyPkgwD86Bn
「你一個人？真大膽呢，小伙子，還挑這個季節。」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyYgTh9AZ5W
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN8Ka59GqXC
「現在的雪山，應該會比較美吧。」旭仔冷淡噉話。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnhOQQFndIo
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1WcNGaPNb1
「美極了！」司機用肯定嘅語氣答，然後繼續話：「不過你這個季節來，可危險啦！西藏的天氣是變幻莫測的，你現在進藏，可能會遇到暴風雪呢！小伙子，我看你還是重新考慮一下吧！夏天再來，人可多了，隨便找個伴一起騎，有個照應，也熱鬧。你現在上去，一路上恐怕碰不到幾個人呢。」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ49rYvsqzRj
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJJ8vZy9n4A
「沒人更好。」旭仔繼續冷淡噉回應。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZdohE2EGHJ
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV5tfPICBDB
司機一番熱心，畀旭仔成桶冰水兜頭淋落嚟，就唔再撩佢傾計。過咗半個鐘左右，貨Van喺一個四周一片漆黑嘅地方停低。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmxJ1lb2ZNg
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBsObCYoV0E
旭仔覺得奇怪，就問：「司機，到古城了嗎？」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbDQxpAwuyJ
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfwAaXUyqOT
司機答：「小伙子，先付錢，我再載你去古城。」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyqIJ7zfQhv
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnQw4sAGj3y
於是旭仔喺銀包攞出一百蚊人民幣，遞畀司機。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp2u8x8rvE0
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpnF3mUIKpD
點知司機竟然話：「兩百！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQM3RRQaY06
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLfhlzmYP0V
旭仔意識到自己畀人昆咗，但仍然據理力爭：「怎麼是兩百？之前明明說好是一百！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoQcEyV63kc
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYXYFgDQC8W
司機開始詭辯：「我說一百是說車你的人到古城一百，可是你的車子那麼重，當然要另外收費啊！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI7z3QRbgZy
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR8ZSzvlwSG
旭仔質問：「那上車的時候你為什麼不跟我先說明？」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTLgAPoQ6R7
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYgcQEDHhE1
司機反駁：「為什麼我要說明？為什麼你不問啊！這可是常識啊！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcpDl612BWw
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoRXO2KlAK7
旭仔苦笑話：「看來我的常識跟你的常識不太一樣啊！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6esvsRJ5mi
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkrKri6XFSI
司機開始唔耐煩噉話：「不要說那麼多，你給不給錢，不給就給我下車，你自己去古城！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMbJjGreK6Y
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9dLzuEpUjU
旭仔知道呢刻同佢爭論落去都冇意思，而佢部電話未有呢邊嘅網絡，而家落車嘅話恐怕搵唔到路，唯有出最後嘅絕招：「算了！算了！就當大家都有錯，我多給五十，這樣行不行？」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSSzIFRjHqv
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY2tKUtVRsO
「八十！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4uPPMxAKgH
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrxZayVmz7y
「六十！」743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGyBInHMUt5
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq1YxNXbXQf
「七十！不能再低了！」司機話。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFGy4Ovqzfy
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHJXueuUSxZ
於是旭仔心不甘情不願噉遞咗總共一百七十蚊畀司機。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3FLtbHpWkm
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaNPj3RAhlX
司機收到錢終於開車，開咗十分鐘左右就到麗江古城（又名大妍古城）。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlkPOU7m8HU
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjLauG7fIPM
「騙子！」深深不忿嘅旭仔落車後指住車上嘅司機咒罵。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3a3a7NRz1d
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNLmh0acssZ
「小伙子，你普通話這麼爛，應該不是深圳人吧！是香港人？」司機將頭伸出車窗，用質疑嘅語氣問。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBYjuiiqmsH
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxN36WsHrjw
旭仔沉默。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWIlPm7cqKj
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6fF72XAvKj
司機繼續話：「我猜對了吧！還罵我騙子呢！你跟我不相伯仲而已。」講完開車離去。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUhglHdTYbw
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmlXnSghmym
旭仔心諗，旅程都未開始，就畀人呃錢，真係出師不利。743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVraR1LnFwf
743Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBYVPrgnUq8
帶住沉重嘅心情，拖住沉重嘅單車箱，旭仔慢慢走入古城，到青年旅社安頓。

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