朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ96124WO03H
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBlYkef4oiM
「這麼早？」旭仔問。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWFmOypL02a
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgxFlNAIqeN
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgfPBpJD6Mo
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf663XkgaA8
「是啊，要趕路了。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWu3bYlkUG8
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBYEepo4xfM
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVb278lOzAL
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIJ2tCUHqYv
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl1nrjE0KHu
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaMp2ybjJUe
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD0MRjVp5rq
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9tHJXM7Igx
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg4TTpukHH7
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK91oOEOm5e
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0z5LZNp8hX
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUaHCcbLkS7
「謝謝你。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoShLUrQbLy
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5mEI8IBQRf
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6GY39uTRGB
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbtoRNnsVG6
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy272hhVUed
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGM6cxFyZ9B
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8p7WzzpgpZ
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBhJRbpzFDi
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7PIoRLramp
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmSARXiSFCJ
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGCyiEN0PBM
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfsRHAAsKXY
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUng7B34sOw
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEvstirNFwc
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtnCWT9HIjK
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp05K3rTunS
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7AW20y8QcE
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZAUY7X717N
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxU3KnIcugM
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCKoa9vXGrB
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡif2GkZXuyX
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvc8FkZXIzj
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0fyubJxMpS
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9bMkcMqXjb
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcQgUxHbldo
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHNDc4Yr69c
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnqClbad3uO
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8ID6tMrdiL
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDxq0ps0lnD
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmfjuGZbqZ1
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSwikhklbzJ
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSGwN0mNl54
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWysg9WK1D9
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡksW6Ealuya
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBe7hqOwLQ7
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6OEbqW7CVA
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmOacbjbl6C
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvDbrQFGoBe
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSP3JUQpAmt
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhP0wZzRae6
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOT2cH1KNgC
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ18zr1s8tSJ
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwoYLalTMsj
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAnsNf8LiEb
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaEgQTxnLeF
「是的。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUyaG8BNlMm
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaWvHJBEhl4
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvCtimOE2l3
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtv00s9tlfK
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuvoZmRILKI
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKZ3BTZJP1E
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaHNxy5PREc
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2O4pHz7NC1
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVDzatgxx3e
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8iWbl3ZVU3
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQpl3jY3riy
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEt3Y41bx97
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx7OCGINGEe
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzTzmHypcp6
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5Al3DAb9aV
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡO6p4MvFLbp
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡahgD3KzPPi
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwfHgs5ZR2w
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbd6YFZQIjn
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbgyPFgpUmF
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnVWYcNsw5N
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwvV4PEYWHx
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ06bhdF2ook
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHkCN2teEE9
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR5fGAbiab5
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGg7iElB3wt
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN853D5Fbsd
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2H0hFn3QAn
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlpQyEIete5
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡICTKNEm8Wz
「太好了！」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4bA9QXgSCu
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf7eMb3xZ1X
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ55xf4E41aS
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwYFpTwYbYA
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvxeKxovI2v
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdrUrYxk3u4
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0fK8qd3Alu
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvYF1XVoile
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1oyzN00GFV
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxIWnJsndqf
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmIELs7KR3m
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX7rHoshsGF
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWWJqhQ9fa7
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJfYVx038FL
「好。」旭仔答。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1Cchu2yzkj
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWxk9T1Qs79
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAcNqG92PEq
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGDB8GVJ1YT
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJmIolwp6hX
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡykfg20HjYg
旭仔淺嘗一口。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUWCjCITEsU
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRefT7IbFxd
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRPGh7xqoS1
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYcXlVrizKC
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTwlEEF0AoI
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs2BC93hCxr
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLaNqzK2xPp
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0GQyx3TSce
「好喝。」旭仔答。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrSAph17Pe7
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ86T7I7cPIz
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCPeNFC60cs
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2TSiNdgJY8
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF2XrmP2ykI
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4HAtr73H35
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDlE6MxhP18
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMGzQA3Jji8
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMFKRhMEiKQ
641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJnQCHJYv18
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。641Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdMvo4dANF2
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