朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡowKU5kkClt
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtoxto07OXX
「這麼早？」旭仔問。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5pOXWwoh3m
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡriFS9yxin2
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZOGq4IzlIf
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7861LTo7tI
「是啊，要趕路了。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVrZ3WrqmEp
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzciQYdWa2z
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCleCh7Tuaz
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUePeAEUBpL
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKEwIb1YiET
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt37Ep1LnAr
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr8otG2D2aB
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKBrSM3q5Cr
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZw71zJxDFc
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnofUMYuwtu
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡulcOgJlqZY
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCWHO9dwDuK
「謝謝你。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY7eXee72N2
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrfO12HtmNS
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpG4lu1JWgF
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡne5V7xps3P
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0WMk597gpv
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKB4kQo5Lvs
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv8uAsPHFuK
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbmwGgqsuKc
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFX3PES3z5f
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnvoDhdwWoh
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡExdZ6Qdn8s
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn18HxZgy8E
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQIdXrZ6bzO
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDqCGUKCpzy
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeR2a2riqaT
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwN6jTm1mhP
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAQyIc7Vu9n
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY4NtsA9gLY
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoIPYh7kZs0
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVKOWcL319Y
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUzfnyBhda5
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0zb6FPZhvw
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMSkV9nSGmG
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuGdZa78aMe
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2cgEWGeBEp
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB2Q8dzNc5e
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCchPw2AXjE
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxKnBygUv3M
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUP5xy6jrGE
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpHl8Z6nKcv
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdYpsJyc9kX
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUZX4dxRNQa
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ6lFpzdmWb
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBR8B154OlZ
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnWSFghZECv
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXgnQl1hCWy
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWqZFqRy9Hu
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZES2zXSY2x
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡATLatOqczA
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡISlfYg5loC
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW6vesmM8Jx
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8xDAnaLeK9
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrpv4pv0Tjg
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGaI5W0g4r2
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxNcnmOtmPZ
「是的。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbjfH9Ol6SB
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxcAhbhMzEr
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzHCEwou028
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYWI3xHWBMw
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGa3wHFvJFh
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUMy8i3FC49
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEKOuimJMnV
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlm4aFysPjW
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkZ4jf4v4il
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRG9S4qYqaJ
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIzvlDpPU4w
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4rDeRaa7ar
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3T2FQr9BhQ
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9dAOftxPg4
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡturUQUkeTc
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNu0kQjANWT
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvwHE71QOOx
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMNwhlfEqUX
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr3ViupNoCT
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSqUDpXuWUT
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW9Y32hLwX9
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuqKXSgU194
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ325aFTnbkj
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWognPqFLAM
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoUh1YMRHw5
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFYb0BOIuI1
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡATVkz6RkL0
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdeVDTS7HRj
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt4h3d2airQ
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfHY21ZuwcM
「太好了！」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ11RlBDlYD5
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZtkJ9tB6I3
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPNroGG6gKo
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9rbKGsDjEw
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYbAJxv1NNe
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiPxriAqQ9A
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdTWCHFyuZG
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡufOLnunYKO
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmVytLoT4C6
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡngRm0RL1Ip
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4UYT616eiW
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbBhIhSoHCA
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwuIFroq1p3
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYdwp1DciNe
「好。」旭仔答。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnQKUQNqiyL
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3wAibOR1Ai
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrCcVyzfxCR
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvxvriQ32zj
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYXofJ5Ti8W
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbt8vhbMEvP
旭仔淺嘗一口。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqztpjYHFw7
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ83suLMPhya
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjtwjGtsmtc
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgrpCS5Xyiy
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjOnA3d2jeq
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpxH8M9hnF0
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwuXtQuXUbt
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy3Q3TNeH1C
「好喝。」旭仔答。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi6fZvFMETt
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW6KGij1VCn
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAZxcgDjAo8
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUCMeF7gVT8
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡze5T4WQ48V
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLe6KyGJVzH
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWBDNHL4z1n
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyVYPRSOlaM
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIsctJHbzKY
640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpgbY1wh2U9
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。640Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg8CHukd1QW
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